On th road – Prague Josefov


After our first big tour through Prague we started the morning with what we had finished the last night with: Walking around the former Jewish Quarter Josefov. It was really nice seeing these beautiful houses at day time: lots of pastels, floral elements and the like. Art Nouveau for the mass market, I would call it. Just beautiful.

It was definitively freezing so we thought: a museum would be nice. Unfortunately museums in Prague, like in many other places in this world, are closed on Monday. Except for the Jewish Museum (Židovské muzeum v Praze), which, naturally, is closed on Saturday. So we bought a a ticket for the museum and decided on taking the option without the Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga). We started out in the Spanish Synagogue (Španělská synagoga) in U staré školy 1 with its impressive interior and learned a lot about Jews during the Nazi Regime in Czech Republic or rather Bohemia. We then went into the Klausensynagogue (Klausová synagoga) that borders the cemetery. Finally paid a visit to the Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) with the names of all killed Jews in Bohemia and Moravia during the Nazi regime before we kind of queued our way through the cemetery. By the way: the entrance to the cemetery is on the other side from were the exit is, in the street called Široká while the exit is between Klausensynagogue and Ceremonial Hall (Obřadní síň), both included in your ticket, in a smaller street called U starého hřbitova. So I guess walking through the cemetery first and then visiting Klausensynagogue and Ceremonial Hall makes more sense than how we did it the other way round.

After this interesting but in parts very depressing morning we now headed to the Old Town again. After some time we were near the Charles Bridge (Karlův most) again. We didn’t actually walk it but just stepped on it quickly because we were looking for a place to have a late lunch. What we had seen on the side of the Lesser Quarter then day before did not spark our imagination. So we looked into our guide book and picked the on that read “At midday this place is packed with local”. U Provaznice lies between the Old City market square and Wenzel’s square near the subway stop Muztek in Provaznická 3 and really is a nice, down to earth pub. Of course they are used to tourists and have menues in different languages but the prices are good as was the food. By then I was already trinking lots of tea instead of beer because the cold that Michael had sported the week before had finally hit me hard in the face.

After our late lunch, is was close to getting dark again. That really is the pity when you go on a city trip in late October. At 4.30 p.m. light starts to fade and by 5.30 p.m. it is dark. But we used the last hour or so of light and walked up and down Wenzel’s Square (Václavské náměstí) one of the main squares in the New Town (Nové Město) and seamed by shops so we had a little look around too.

After that I felt really miserable and urged Michael to return to our hotel. Two hours of rest were a little help. But we checked our guide again because the first recommendation had been pretty good. Our next choice was even marked as a special tip.  Lokál is a huge pub with a very long room with tables running along one side and when we arrived at 9 p.m. it was packed and of course we hadn’t placed a reservation. But as Michael knows how to get a table anyway we just waited near the food bar and were in the waitresses’ way so long until they found a table for us.



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